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Europe Travel

Europe Travel Report: Swiss Air Resumes Service, Graubünden Rings In Spring, Mount Etna Blows Her Top

Mount Etna stands watch over the ancient Greek theatre of Taormina, Sicily. Mount Etna erupted seven times during the last two weeks.

Mount Etna stands watch over the ancient Greek theatre of Taormina, Sicily. Mount Etna erupted seven times during the last two weeks.

Happy March!

The first day of spring is just two-and-a-half weeks away. So what’s new on the Europe travel front? 

The big travel news this week comes from Swiss International Airlines. Swiss Air plans to start expanding services again including the reopening of the Zurich-Miami (Florida) route from March 28th onward, the Zurich-Boston route on May 1st, and Zurich-Los Angeles on May 2nd.

Does this mean that Europe is opening up? Not quite. On February 25th Swiss Air announced that they do not expect to see any tangible resumption of air travel activity until mid-summer at the earliest. Airlines spend a lot of time trying to predict the future, so this offers a pretty good picture of Europe travel at the moment.

That said, here are some interesting happenings in Europe. 


Happy Chalandamarz!

Chalandamarz Bells.jpg

Chalandamarz is an ancient tradition in the Swiss canton of Graubünden that marks the end of winter and the arrival of spring. This festival, celebrated annually on the first of March, is unique to the Romansh and Italian-speaking parts of Graubünden. The Engadine valley in particular is a great place to see Chalandamarz in full effect.

Many European cultures have some form of ritual for chasing away the darkness of winter. In Graubünden, the boys of each village sing and parade through the streets ringing bells as they go. Some of the bells are quite enormous and create a sonorous racket. There’s also a bit of whip cracking and some good partying and dancing too. The oldest boys in the village often lead the procession. The object is to scare away the evil spirits of winter and welcome the good spirits of spring.

One of the best villages for witnessing the ancient tradition of Chalandamarz is the village of Guarda in the lower Engadine. The boys wear a blue coat, a bright red cap with tassle, and a red kerchief wrapped around the neck. The boys affix an enormous bell around their arms and torso with the largest bells sticking straight out from their chests. The bells bang and clank as they shake back and forth. The oldest boys carry the largest bells.

If you’d like to learn more about this fascinating tradition then check out the children’s book A Bell for Ursli by Selina Chönz and Alois Carigiet (Illustrator). It’s the story of a young boy from Guarda named Ursli. He needs a cowbell to lead the procession through his village so he heads to his family’s chalet in the Alps and has a life-changing experience. The book is available in multiple languages.

Happy Chalandamarz, dear friends!  


Europe’s Most Active Volcano, Mount Etna, Erupts Seven Times in Two Weeks

Mount Etna Sicily.jpg

Mount Etna, a regularly active volcano on the east coast of Sicily, is really putting on a show right now with seven eruptions in the last two weeks. The first eruption occurred on February 16th, with spurts of activity ever since. Nearby residents report rocks falling from the sky and ash in the streets. Our prayers go out to those impacted by the eruption. Imagine having to deal with COVID and a volcano too! 

On a positive note: The ash from the volcano is precisely the reason that the lower slopes of Mount Etna are so fertile. Vineyards, orchards and rich gardens cover the lower slopes and are worth visiting when Mt. Etna feels less cantankerous. 

Hike through Europe inn-to-inn on your own or with a private guide! Click here to inquire.

Europe Travel Report: Light at the End of the Tunnel, Skyway Monte Bianco Reopened, New Michelin Stars in Lugano

The view into the Vallée Blanche from Punta Helbronner (Pointe Helbronner) on the Skyway Monte Bianco. The Skyway reopened on February 11, 2021.

The view into the Vallée Blanche from Punta Helbronner (Pointe Helbronner) on the Skyway Monte Bianco. The Skyway reopened on February 11, 2021.

Wow, the weeks are flying by!

Looking over the past week, my favorite sentence regarding this historic pandemic comes from the current Swiss president and economics minister, Guy Parmelin, who said, "We can see the light at the end of the tunnel, but there is still a long way to go.” 

Indeed! There is still no definitive date for the reopening of Europe to foreign travelers, but serious progress is being made. Notably, the UK Prime Minister Boris Johnson recently announced a “Global Travel Taskforce” which will present a report on April 12th with recommendations on how to reopen international travel. At this point, the government anticipates no international travel before May 17th. Granted, the UK prime minister can’t make decisions for Switzerland, France, Italy, or any other European country, but the fact that we’re having this conversation is good news. The British government also announced on Sunday that every adult in the country should be able to have their first coronavirus vaccine shot by July 31. This is a full month earlier than the government’s previous target!

This isn’t to say that the situation is rainbows and unicorns. It’s not. I feel grateful every day for the ability to help guests plan their future trips to Europe. Here are some travel-related flickers of light in Europe at the moment. 


The Skyway Monte Bianco Reopened on February 11, 2021

This is the view of the Dent du Géant (Giant’s Tooth) from the Pointe Helbronner (11,358 feet / 3,462 meters) on the Skyway Monte Bianco. The Skyway Monte Bianco reopened on February 11, 2021.

This is the view of the Dent du Géant (Giant’s Tooth) from the Pointe Helbronner (11,358 feet / 3,462 meters) on the Skyway Monte Bianco. The Skyway Monte Bianco reopened on February 11, 2021.

The Italian cable car system Skyway Monte Bianco reopened on February 11, 2021. This is really exciting news because it was almost one year ago that Italy shut down because of the pandemic, becoming the first western country to get hammered by COVID-19.

The Skyway Monte Bianco connects the town of Courmayeur, Italy with Punta Helbronner (Pointe Helbronner) on the south side of the Mont Blanc Massif. The Skyway Monte Bianco is one link of a much longer trans-border high alpine cable car system that connects the towns of Courmayeur, Italy and Chamonix, France. The Skyway Monte Bianco offers incredible views of the Aosta Valley, the Val Veny, and the Val Ferret in Italy. As guests climb higher they enjoy expansive views to the Matterhorn in Switzerland, the Monte Rosa (border of Switzerland and Italy), and the Gran Paradiso (Italy). Guests also delight in up-close views of Mont Blanc (the highest peak in Western Europe), the Dent du Géant, and the Vallée Blanche (see top photo), home to the Mer de Glace, one of the most prominent glaciers in the Alps.

From the Pointe Helbronner, guests have the option of continuing the journey to France by hopping on a three-mile-long cable car and dangling above sparkling glaciers during an airy crossing of the Vallée Blanche. Guests can then board on an equally stunning cable car at l’Aiguille du Midi (an imposing rock spire) for an immediate and precipitous drop into Chamonix, France.

Each segment of the cable car system is a striking journey in itself, but the entire trip from Courmayeur, Italy to Chamonix, France is an incredibly breathtaking and once-in-a-lifetime experience. Hint: It’s also a great rest day excursion during the Tour du Mont Blanc. Please contact us for advice on working this into your itinerary.


Three Lugano Restaurants Awarded a MICHELIN Star

Hiking trails lead to MICHELIN-starred restaurants in Canton Ticino, Switzerland. This is the “olive path” which takes hikers past historic olive groves in the lakeside village of Gandria just outside of Lugano.

Hiking trails lead to MICHELIN-starred restaurants in Canton Ticino, Switzerland. This is the “olive path” which takes hikers past historic olive groves in the lakeside village of Gandria just outside of Lugano.

The first time I tasted a traditional Ticinese risotto in Lugano I was blown away by the flavors. The ingredients tasted so fresh and lovingly prepared. I looked at my friend Veronica, who is from Ticino, and I said, “OMG, these tomatoes. They are the best I’ve ever tasted!” (They really were the best.)

Veronica smiled and replied, “That’s because they come from a farm outside of Milano, Italy, just 50 km down the road.”

Ah ha! It’s this Italian infusion of fresh ingredients that is the secret to the wonderful flavors that you find in Ticino—Switzerland’s Italian-speaking “Riviera.”

Good food is an integral part of the Lugano experience, so I was not surprised when I heard that three restaurants in Lugano received new MICHELIN stars. Bravo to the following chefs/establishments! 

I Due Sud / Chef Domenico Ruberto
At the Hotel Splendide Royal *****s

Ristorante Principe Leopoldo / Chef Christian Moreschi
At the Hotel Villa Principe Leopoldo*****s

Ristorante META / Chef Luca Bellanca
At the Palazzo Mantegazza

MICHELIN-starred restaurants pair really well with village-to-village hiking tours in Ticino. Or how about a cooking class and cruise on Lake Lugano? Let’s design your dream trip!

Europe Travel Report: Pandemic Calculus, Inver Restaurant Scotland, Scottish Castles Go Green

Inveraray Castle is just a 40 minute drive from Inver Restaurant (see below) located on the shores of Loch Fyne, Scotland.

Inveraray Castle is just a 40 minute drive from Inver Restaurant (see below) located on the shores of Loch Fyne, Scotland.

This past week I attended a webinar with the European Tourism Association (ETOA). The topic of the meeting was, “When will Europe’s borders open?”  

The takeaway from the meeting was: It’s anybody’s guess. At this point, I still stand behind my travel timeline here.

The challenge for the travel industry (and just about every industry, actually), is the lack of data which could help predict an end date for the pandemic. There are just too many variables, and the sporadic vaccine rollout coupled with new variants of COVID, makes any definitive end date for the pandemic a constantly moving target.

That said, there was interesting news coming out of Greece and Israel this week. The two countries signed an agreement allowing vaccinated tourists to travel between the two countries. They’re apparently discussing deals with other countries as well. 

This is just my opinion, but I suspect we’ll hear more announcements like this, especially as some countries reach full (or near full) vaccination before others. As I write this, it’s being reported that two-thirds of Israel’s population already received their first shot of the COVID vaccine. We’re also going to hear a lot more discussion about the “vaccine passport” which opens up a whole can of worms.

For those of you who are trying to plan your summer travel vacation to Europe, just be flexible. And most importantly, stay healthy!

And don’t forget, we can still PLAN for future travel to Europe even if we can’t travel right at this moment. Many researchers say, in fact, that planning for travel is as equally good for your health as actually taking a vacation. Since the act of planning travel is good for you, let’s dive in and get healthy. Here are a couple of new things going on in Europe at the moment. 


The Inver Restaurant in Scotland Awarded a Green MICHELIN Star

The ruins of Old Castle Lachlan, a fifteenth century fortress, are within walking distance of Inver restaurant on the shores of Loch Fyne.

The ruins of Old Castle Lachlan, a fifteenth century fortress, are within walking distance of Inver restaurant on the shores of Loch Fyne.

The MICHELIN Green Star is a new distinction that recognizes restaurants for their focus on sustainability. To quote Michelin directly: The MICHELIN Green Star highlights the efforts of those operating at the forefront of their field with sustainable gastronomy practices and plays a role in bringing their vision to everyone by preserving natural resources, protecting ecological diversity, implementing sustainable gastronomy with a calling for the application of local food ingredients and reducing food waste.

I was overjoyed when I heard that MICHELIN awarded Inver a Green Star. Inver is a small incredibly atmospheric restaurant housed in a former crofter’s cottage on the shores of Loch Fyne on Scotland’s western coast. I love this place, and indeed, the locals call it the best loved restaurant in Argyll. Inver welcomes its guests with atmosphere, delicious food and great views of the Loch. Inver’s real focus, however, is sustainability, and I really love the integrity and authentic love of the land that Inver’s staff brings to everything they do. This team is the real deal. This is authentic Scotland. I could wax eloquent about Inver, but it’s their own words that really speak volumes. Upon receiving the distinction Inver writes, “A Green Star for ‘sustainable gastronomy’ from Michelin: this one’s not for us. It’s for all of our beloved community, near and far.”

They then proceed to name all of the food suppliers and extended community network, family and friends, that make their restaurant possible (it’s a long list). They mention the local gardeners who grow without chemicals, and the neighbor and his kids who provide buckets of fresh fish. They honor the local Fyne Ales brewery who supplies the naturally fermented beers, and they thank the 100 year old soaperie who delivers traditionally made bars. Most importantly Inver writes: “Inver is part of an ecosystem, and if all the people, plants, animals and landscape who connect it can’t thrive, then neither do we.” 

Well put. Congrats Inver! 


Scotland’s Castles Aim to be More Green

Edinburgh Castle in Edinburgh, Scotland.

Edinburgh Castle in Edinburgh, Scotland.

Castle are big structures and they require a lot of energy to keep them warm. Not to shy away from a challenge, however, Historic Environment Scotland (HES), which manages more than 300 properties in Scotland, announced that they aim to be “net-zero” by 2045. The plan includes creating parking hubs for visitor vehicles to reduce emissions, developing cycling infrastructure for staff and visitors, and eliminating gas heating from all HES buildings. 

HES says that some properties could be warmed by “district heating” which transfers heat energy from one point to another through a complex system of highly insulated pipes. 

Historic Environment Scotland manages more than 300 properties in Scotland including Edinburgh Castle, Linlithgow Palace and Stirling Castle.   

*Would you like to visit the castles of Scotland? How about walking the whiskey trail?

Europe Travel Report: Travel Restrictions, Luzern Paddle Steamer, Mt. Rigi Steam Trains, The Alps on PBS

The village of Seis am Schlern in the Südtirol (South Tyrol), Italian Dolomites.

The village of Seis am Schlern in the Südtirol (South Tyrol), Italian Dolomites.

Salut travelers! Not a lot has changed since last week’s Europe travel report. Scotland extended their lockdown until the end of February. In Switzerland, the COVID-19 infection rate continues to fall, but the interior minister, Alain Berset, said that Switzerland is unlikely to ease its COVID restrictions before the end of February. This is amid fears of new virus strains. In France, the rules have tightened for travelers entering from the EU and Schengen area states. The scene isn’t much better throughout the rest of Europe. In the Alto Adige of Italy’s Südtirol (South Tyrol), residents entered another lockdown for three weeks. It’s not time to travel to Europe yet.  

That said, there IS some positive news. In the Middle East, there there is evidence coming out of Israel that the COVID-19 vaccine is beginning to curb the spread of the virus. It’s only a matter of time (fingers crossed) before vaccinations begin to effectively curb the virus in other countries. Be patient and stay safe! We’ve received more inquiries about fall travel. We’re hopeful but cautious, and we’re reminding all of our guests to remain flexible and to be grateful for good health. 

On a brighter note, here are some interesting things just waiting to be explored when Europe opens up again. PLANNING for a future trip is perfectly safe!


The Historic Steamboat Stadt Luzern Launches This Spring

The historic paddle steamer Stadt Luzern on Lake Lucerne. Photo courtesy of Lake Lucerne Navigation Company AG.

The historic paddle steamer Stadt Luzern on Lake Lucerne. Photo courtesy of Lake Lucerne Navigation Company AG.

The majestic paddle steamer Stadt Luzern returns to the waters of Lake Lucerne on May 1, 2021 following a two and-a-half year restoration. The Stadt Luzern is the flagship of the Lake Lucerne Navigation Company (SGV) which operates a fleet of 19 modern and historic vessels. Have you ever plied the waters of Lake Lucerne on a historic steamer? It’s a really special experience, and the Stadt Luzern is a very special vessel. She was built in 1928 as the last paddle steamer built for a Swiss Lake. The Stadt Luzern boasts an elegant Art Deco saloon and a fascinating guest list including Queen Elizabeth II. Over 80,000 hours of labor and 13.2 million Swiss francs went into returning the Stadt Luzern to its regal shine. Now she is stylishly renovated, more environmentally friendly, and proudly rejuvenated, Would you like to feel rejuvenated? How about a Wine & Dine cruise to go with your hike through the Swiss Alps? Or how about using the historic paddle steamer to access one of the many hikes in the area? Give us a call.


The Mount Rigi Railway Celebrates 150 Years With Steam

Mount Rigi is the oldest mountain railway in Europe.

Mount Rigi is the oldest mountain railway in Europe.

This is an incredible year for people who love steam-powered machines! We have the paddle steamer Stadt Luzern launching in May following a two and-a-half year refit (see previous post), and we have the “Romance of Steam” excursions in honor of Mount Rigi Railway’s 150th anniversary this summer. The Vitznau-Rigi Bahn (VRB) is Europe’s oldest mountain railway. Offically opened in 1871, the Vitznau-Rigi Bahn was the first mountain rack railway ever built in Europe and it’s also the second-oldest mountain railway in the world after the Mt. Washington Cog Railway in the United States. There are lots of anniversary celebrations planned for this summer on Mount Rigi but the “Romance of Steam” excursions are a special treat. On select days during the summer, passengers can ride in vintage passenger cars pulled behind some of the oldest steam-powered rack railway locomotives in the world. This is an experience straight out of “La Belle Époque” the golden age of mountain travel. One of my favorite locomotives on the line is locomotive No. 7 (Lok 7). Lok 7 was built in 1873, has a vertical boiler, and she still runs. She’s one of the oldest, if not THE oldest, surviving locomotive in Switzerland. It’s a shame that travel is so locked up this summer due to the pandemic. I’m hopeful that Rigi will continue to run steam in some form for the foreseeable future. Let us know if you’d like to experience this historic gem of a railway. We have two nice Swiss Alps Rail + Hike trips which visit Mount Rigi. Of course, we can also build any kind of custom trip. With or without steam, Mount Rigi is a great experience and the views (and hiking) off the top are outstanding. 


Watch “The Alps” Right Now On PBS

A chamois in the Tatra Mountains, Slovakia.

A chamois in the Tatra Mountains, Slovakia.

There is a great show streaming on PBS right now. It’s called The Alps. The two-part series is part of the PBS Nature program and focuses on the wildlife that live in the high Alps. The scenery is outstanding and the close-up footage of the animals living their every day life is astonishing. You’ll see eagles, chamois, ibex, lynx, bear, griffon vultures, and more. You can watch the show online, but the show expires in a week so hurry! Yesterday I ran into a friend on the trail who said she saw the show and thought of me. She absolutely loved the program. If you love big mountain scenery, then you’ll love it too! Check out The Alps on pbs.org.

Europe Travel Report: Border Closures, Lion Monument, Ceneri Base Tunnel, Leakey's Bookshop

Tranquil moments on the shores of Lake Lugano in the canton of Ticino, Switzerland.

Tranquil moments on the shores of Lake Lugano in the canton of Ticino, Switzerland.

Hello lovely travelers! If you’ve been thinking about traveling to Europe as much as I have recently, then you’re feeling REALLY anxious right now. Several of you reached out to me in recent weeks wondering when we’ll be able to head back to Europe for hiking in the Alps, visiting a castle in Scotland, and/or sitting down to a delicious dinner in France. The simple answer is that it’s still not possible, or advisable, for non-Europeans to visit Europe for touristic purposes at this time. Let’s dive in and see what’s going on in Europe this week. 

Europe is pretty much locked down to foreign tourists. There are various exceptions, but in general, traveling to Europe for pleasure is a no-go for the immediate future. In the UK, the national government is currently enforcing a national lock down in an effort to curb the transmission of COVID-19. In Switzerland, vaccinations are under way, but a raft of measures passed in January have closed non-essential businesses, public and private parties are reduced to 5 people, and most workers across the country are required to telecommute from home. In France, a mandatory curfew has residents resting chez eux each night from 06:00 pm to 06:00 am. Some shops and public services remain open in France, but restaurants and bars are fermé. In Germany, restrictions are tight. There are all sorts of rules applying to travel, and it is currently verboten for accommodation providers to offer overnight accommodation for tourism purposes. The German government, along with Austria, also made N95 surgical masks mandatory on all public transport and in stores. No cloth masks allowed! In the Netherlands, riots recently broke out over curfews. In Italy, the prime minister resigned this week as the COVID-19 response split the coalition government. That’s just a peek into the Europe travel scene at the moment. It’s not exactly conducive for sipping a café and feeling romantic in a French bistro.

What about 2021 summer travel? 

It’s a toss up. We’ve actually been quite busy lately. We have guests signed up for fall hiking in the Swiss Alps, and we’ve been writing proposals for custom trips for all times of the year. In short, we all have our fingers crossed, and everybody understands that we just have to wait and see how events unfold. I’m not terribly optimistic about summer travel, but looking at the data and the predictive math, I think it’s slightly possible that we’ll be traveling to Europe by the fall of 2021. I’m hopeful. That said, we humans really have to come together to beat this pandemic. The realist in me believes that we probably won’t seriously consider travel in Europe until the spring of 2022. I hope I’m wrong and we get through this earlier. This is an exercise in patience! Rest assured, you’ll be the first to know when we have the green light. The most important thing is that we get through this safely. I’m looking forward to traveling with all of you for many years to come.

Know this. The travel situation is not all gloom and doom. Time passes quickly, and we’ll be sipping Apfelschorle in the Italian Dolomites before we know it! In the meantime, here are some interesting things going on in Europe this year. 


The Lion Monument in Luzern celebrates 200 Years

The Dying Lion Monument (Löwendenkmal) in Luzern honors the Swiss Guards who lost their lives during the French Revolution. The monument is 200 years old in 2021.

The Dying Lion Monument (Löwendenkmal) in Luzern honors the Swiss Guards who lost their lives during the French Revolution. The monument is 200 years old in 2021.

The Lion Monument (Löwendenkmal) in Luzern commemorates the Swiss Guards who lost their lives during the storming of the French King’s Tuileries palace by French Revolutionaries on August 10, 1792. A surviving Swiss Guard officer named Carl Pfyffer von Altishofen from Luzern brought the monument to fruition, and a Danish sculptor named Bertel Thorvaldsen developed the design. Sculptors carved the image of the dying lion directly into the sand stone wall of a former quarry and inaugurated the monument on August 10, 1821. Please do visit the Lion Monument the next time you’re in Luzern. The monument is an easy 10 minute walk from the famous Chapel Bridge in downtown Luzern, or a quick 7 minute ride by bus.  


The New Ceneri Base Tunnel Makes Alpine Travel Crazy Fast

Montebello Castle is one of three historic castles in Bellinzona and a UNSESCO World Heritage Site. Travel between Zürich and Bellinzona is less than two hours thanks to the new Ceneri Base Tunnel. The travel between Lugano and Bellinzona is just 15…

Montebello Castle is one of three historic castles in Bellinzona and a UNSESCO World Heritage Site. Travel between Zürich and Bellinzona is less than two hours thanks to the new Ceneri Base Tunnel. The travel between Lugano and Bellinzona is just 15 minutes.

The Ceneri Base Tunnel opened for regular service on December 13, 2020. The travel between Zürich and Lugano now takes less than two hours! Yes, you really can have your Zürcher Geschnetzeltes for lunch and your Risotto Ticinese for dinner too. What’s more, the journey from Zürich to Milan, Italy is a brisk 3 hours and 17 minutes. (Three hours is the eventual goal.) 

But wait, there’s more! The Bellinzona-Locarno-Lugano triangle also experienced a quantum leap in transport efficiency. Thanks to new routes and state-of-the art trains, the travel time between Lugano and Locarno has been reduced to 30 minutes. The journey between Bellinzona and Lugano is just…wait for it…15 minutes! Put the castles of Bellinzona on your bucket list the next time you visit Ticino. The Bellinzona castles are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and worth exploring.  


Fun Times (and Good Reads) at Leakey’s Bookshop

Leakeys Bookshop.JPG

Leakey’s is one of my favorite secondhand book shops in Scotland, and I make it a point to stop in whenever I visit Inverness. Housed in an old Gaelic church dating to 1793, Leakey’s boasts 100,000 selected volumes collected over 40 years. A crackling wood fire keeps the place cozy on chilly days, and the wonderful staff are happy to help you find a good book on nearly any subject. New for this year: The Leakey’s staff proudly announce that they’ve alphabetized the entire crime, thriller, sci-fi, fantasy and popular fiction sections. The days of combing through the whole stack to find the author you’re looking for are over! Personally, I enjoyed the journey and sense of discovery involved with scanning the entire stack. However, the faster you find the book you’re looking for the sooner you can pour yourself a Real Ale and lose yourself in a great story. Awesome job Leakey’s. I can’t wait to dive into those stacks!

That’s all for this week. Do you have any questions about traveling in Europe? Dreaming about hiking in the Alps? This is the perfect time to plan. Please give us a shout