Scotland in Photos: The Legend of Greyfriars Bobby

This life-sized statue of a Skye Terrier is called Greyfriars Bobby. There is an old legend in Edinburgh that ‘Bobby’ belonged to a man named John Gray in the mid 1800s. It is said that after John Gray died in 1858, Bobby spent the next 14 years keeping vigil at his master’s grave.

John Gray was as a night watchman before he died, employed by the Edinburgh City Police, as the story goes. He and Bobby were inseparable before Gray’s passing. When Gray died of tuberculosis in 1858 he was buried in Greyfriars Kirkyard, the cemetery that surrounds Greyfriars Kirk (church) just off Candlemaker Row in Edinburgh Old Town. Bobby became locally well-known during the 14 years that he sat at Gray’s grave, returning every day to await his master’s return. Bobby found a soft spot in many local residents’ hearts during those 14 years. One sympathetic heart in particular was the Lord Provost of Edinburgh who gave Bobby a collar in 1867 thereby making Bobby legally licensed even though Bobby no longer had an official owner. You can see the collar on display at the Museum of Edinburgh. Bobby died in 1872 at the age of 16.  

There have been a lot of stories written about this little dog, and there’s been a bit of controversy too. One historian in particular argues convincingly that there were two Bobbies, the first one was a rough-and-tumble stray, and the second was a nice-looking replacement (after the first one died) that helped fuel the booming tourist trade that quickly developed around Bobby’s tale.

What is indisputably real is this little bronze statue which stands on the corner of Candlemaker Row and George IV Bridge street. The statue dates to 1873 (a year after Bobby died) and sits in front of the entrance to Greyfriars Kirkyard. Yes, you can go inside the kirkyard to visit the graves of Bobby and John Gray. There is also a wonderful little tavern appropriately called “Greyfriars Bobby” next door, and across the street stands the National Museum of Scotland. The museum is awesome!

If you find yourself in Old Town Edinburgh during your next trip, then be sure to stop by and say hi to Bobby. Loyal companion or stray, this little Scottish terrier will surely steal your heart.

Happy Fall Wanderings from Scotland!

Enjoying the view from one of our favorite hikes above Loch Katrine.

Welcome to fall!

As we stroll into these soft autumn days, my thoughts turn to one of the prettiest little bodies of water in Scotland, Loch Katrine.

Loch Katrine is a fresh water loch that stretches for eight miles through the heart of the Trossachs National Park. There are some really lovely walks around the loch, and some of the walks can be combined with a steam ship journey which makes for a very memorable adventure. 

The loch has a varied and fascinating history—a history that includes artists, writers, tourists, water engineers, cattle thieves, and even British Royalty. One of my favorite historical tales involves Queen Victoria on the day she visited the loch to help inaugurate the Loch Katrine Water Project. The welcoming ceremony for Queen Victoria included a 21-gun salute, and the guns were so loud that they blew the windows out the queen’s lakeside cottage! 

While Queen Victoria certainly brought much acclaim to Loch Katrine, it was without question the writings of Sir Walter Scott whose published works The Lady of the Lake and Rob Roy put Loch Katrine on the map. Some people say that Sir Walter Scott “invented modern tourism”  because his works generated an unprecedented explosion of tourist traffic to the loch. Loch Katrine can be busy during the summer, but these days it’s the tranquility of Loch Katrine’s shoreline and rolling hills that I enjoy the most.

Autumn is one of my favorite times to explore the lake. I find the lakeside trails and dappled sunlight reflecting off the water incredibly soothing. Overcast days are cozy too. The Steam Ship Cafe located at the pier on the east end of the loch offers a cheery spot to come in out of the cold and warm up on a misty day. 

I love misty days. As I wrap my hands around a warm cup of tea and gaze at the historic photos that adorn the walls of the cafe, I’m reminded of the words of Jean-Jacques Rousseau, a Genevan writer, philosopher and composer who tramped around Europe during the mid eighteenth century. 

“The wandering life is what I like. To journey on foot, unhurried, in fine weather and in fine country, and to have something pleasant to look forward to at my goal, that is of all ways of life the one that suits me best.” 

Enjoy these autumn days!

Pic of the Day: Eilean Donan Castle

Eilean Donan Castle is a must-see when traveling in Scotland. The present castle is not terribly old. It’s a reconstruction completed in 1932. Still, the human history on the island goes back to the 6th century and perhaps even further. The first fortified castle was built on the island in the mid 13th century but was later partially-destroyed during the Jacobite uprising of 1719. After lying in ruins for nearly 200 years, a gentleman named Lieutenant Colonel John MacRae-Gilstrap bought the island in 1911 and spent 20 years rebuilding the castle into the lovely edifice that we see today. With moody skies and a low tide, Eilean Donan Castle is absolutely spell-binding. Photo by Catherine Pranskatis.