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Place Me Somewhere In The Valais!

A hiking trail weaves between wooden chalets with slate rooftops above the village of Zermatt. The Matterhorn stands proudly in the background—Canton Valais, Switzerland.

A hiking trail weaves between wooden chalets with slate rooftops above the village of Zermatt. The Matterhorn stands proudly in the background—Canton Valais, Switzerland.

Place me somewhere in the Valais, ‘mid the mountains west of Binn,
West of Binn and east of Savoy, in a decent kind of inn,
With a peak or two for climbing, and a glacier to explore—
Any mountains will content me, though they’ve all been climbed before—

-A.D. Godley (From a poem called “Switzerland” published in his book Second Strings in 1902.)

(Photo credit: Andrew Mayovskyy/Shutterstock)

Swiss Pic of the Day: Hiking Beneath the Breithorn

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Here's a photo of the Breithorn (13,661 feet / 4,164 meters) from one of our hikes above the town of Zermatt in the Swiss Alps. The scene brings to mind a quote by a professor from Bern named Benedikt Marti. In 1557 Marti wrote, "Who would not admire, love and willingly visit the Alps? I am never happier than on mountain crests, and there are not wanderings dearer to me than those in the mountains."

We concur!

Vintage Swiss Alps: Kleine Scheidegg and the Wetterhorn

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I love historic images of the Alps, so I was really excited when my friend Denny, owner of Second Story Used Books in Durango, CO, gifted me this vintage postcard from the Berner Oberland region of Switzerland. Denny knows that I lead trips in the Alps, so he squirrels away interesting alpine books and photographs that he thinks I might enjoy. When he handed me the postcard he said, “You probably know where this is, right?”

I replied, “Boy, DO I EVER!” I’ve led a lot of trips over this spot during the years, including a celebratory honeymoon hike with my lady!

This is Kleine Scheidegg, one of the most popular destinations in the Swiss Alps.

Kleine Scheidegg means “little watershed” in German which makes perfect sense given its position on the top of a mountain pass above two gorgeous valleys. Standing on the pass, it’s easy to imagine water flowing eastward toward the village of Grindelwald (nestled in the valley in the background of the postcard) and westward (off the bottom of the postcard) toward the Lauterbrunnen valley. 

During the winter, Kleine Scheidegg is a cornerstone of the world famous Jungrau Ski Region that links the resorts of Grindelwald-Wengen, Grindelwald-First, and Mürren-Schilthorn. During the summer, Kleine Scheidegg is a popular waypoint on the famous Berner Oberland Traverse and Via Alpina inn-to-inn hikes. It’s also the final jumping-off point for the world-famous and ridiculously scenic Jungfraujoch, the highest rail station in Europe.

The large hotel that you see in the photo is called the Hotel Bellevue des Alpes which enjoys a privileged position at the foot of the famous Eiger. You can see the Eiger’s shadow entering from the right hand side of the postcard. To read more about the Bellevue and to see a photo of the dramatic north face of the Eiger, click here

The little train that you see in front of the Hotel Bellevue is called the Jungfraubahn. People travel from all over the world to ride this train to the “Top of Europe.” Click here for a view from the top. And click here for more good stuff. 

The mountain in the background of the postcard is called the Wetterhorn. It’s one of my favorite mountains in the Swiss Alps. The Wetterhorn looks like one mountain, but the individual summits on top have names. From left to right, the three prominent peaks are the Wetterhorn (3,690 meters), the Mittelhorn (3,701 meters), and the Rosenhorn (3,688 meters). 

Dropping off the face of the Wetterhorn (the second ridge below the crease in the postcard) is a mountain pass called Grosse Scheidegg. Grosse Sheidegg means “large (or major) watershed” which is ironic because it’s actually lower in elevation than Kleine Scheidegg. Hike, bike, or ride a Swiss PostBus over the Grosse Scheidegg and you’ll end up in the Reichenbachtal (Reichenbach Valley) which drains to the village of Meiringen. Sherlock Holmes fans should recognize the word Reichenbach. Reichenbach Falls in Meiringen is the place where Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s fictional hero, Sherlock Holmes, fought to the death with Professor Moriarty at the end of "The Final Problem." The story was first published in 1893.

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There is no date or photographer’s information on the back of the postcard, nor is it stamped or addressed. Judging by the style and color of the train, I estimate this photo was taken in the late 1950s to early 1960s. Today’s trains are modern, but Kleine Scheidegg has lost none of its charm or beauty since the day this postcard was printed. 

Would you like to experience Kleine Scheidegg and the heart of the Swiss Alps for yourself? We can set up a tailor-made (just-for-you) hiking trip, train adventure, or ski and snowboard getaway. How about a fondue tasting? Please contact us to build your own trip.

Beautiful Hikes in Corsica

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Around 20 years ago I received my first task as a hiking guide in France. My assignment was to develop a week-long inn-to-inn hiking tour across the island of Corsica. There were three requirements for the trip.

  1. The hiking had to be amazing.

  2. The food had to be delicious.

  3. The accommodations had to be authentic, memorable, and charming.

So off I went! And this is the type of scenery that I found a long the way. Corsica is beautiful! It’s no wonder the French call it l’Ile de Beauté (the island of beauty).

People often ask about my favorite Corsican foods. I have two favorite dishes. One is velouté de châtaignes (creamy chestnut soup). Chestnuts have existed on the Corsican isle for thousands of years, and they are delicious! One of the best chestnut soups that I’ve ever tasted came from the kitchen of the 5 Star Relais & Châteaux La Signoria in Calvi. That soup almost brought me to tears. My other favorite Corsican dish is le sanglier (wild boar). On a cozy fall afternoon, sanglier stew is one of the most satisfying dishes a hiker can eat, unless of course you’re vegetarian. In either case, you won’t go wrong if you start your evening with a glass of Mattei Cap Corse, a very drinkable aperitif.