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Europe Travel Report: Pandemic Calculus, Inver Restaurant Scotland, Scottish Castles Go Green

Inveraray Castle is just a 40 minute drive from Inver Restaurant (see below) located on the shores of Loch Fyne, Scotland.

Inveraray Castle is just a 40 minute drive from Inver Restaurant (see below) located on the shores of Loch Fyne, Scotland.

This past week I attended a webinar with the European Tourism Association (ETOA). The topic of the meeting was, “When will Europe’s borders open?”  

The takeaway from the meeting was: It’s anybody’s guess. At this point, I still stand behind my travel timeline here.

The challenge for the travel industry (and just about every industry, actually), is the lack of data which could help predict an end date for the pandemic. There are just too many variables, and the sporadic vaccine rollout coupled with new variants of COVID, makes any definitive end date for the pandemic a constantly moving target.

That said, there was interesting news coming out of Greece and Israel this week. The two countries signed an agreement allowing vaccinated tourists to travel between the two countries. They’re apparently discussing deals with other countries as well. 

This is just my opinion, but I suspect we’ll hear more announcements like this, especially as some countries reach full (or near full) vaccination before others. As I write this, it’s being reported that two-thirds of Israel’s population already received their first shot of the COVID vaccine. We’re also going to hear a lot more discussion about the “vaccine passport” which opens up a whole can of worms.

For those of you who are trying to plan your summer travel vacation to Europe, just be flexible. And most importantly, stay healthy!

And don’t forget, we can still PLAN for future travel to Europe even if we can’t travel right at this moment. Many researchers say, in fact, that planning for travel is as equally good for your health as actually taking a vacation. Since the act of planning travel is good for you, let’s dive in and get healthy. Here are a couple of new things going on in Europe at the moment. 


The Inver Restaurant in Scotland Awarded a Green MICHELIN Star

The ruins of Old Castle Lachlan, a fifteenth century fortress, are within walking distance of Inver restaurant on the shores of Loch Fyne.

The ruins of Old Castle Lachlan, a fifteenth century fortress, are within walking distance of Inver restaurant on the shores of Loch Fyne.

The MICHELIN Green Star is a new distinction that recognizes restaurants for their focus on sustainability. To quote Michelin directly: The MICHELIN Green Star highlights the efforts of those operating at the forefront of their field with sustainable gastronomy practices and plays a role in bringing their vision to everyone by preserving natural resources, protecting ecological diversity, implementing sustainable gastronomy with a calling for the application of local food ingredients and reducing food waste.

I was overjoyed when I heard that MICHELIN awarded Inver a Green Star. Inver is a small incredibly atmospheric restaurant housed in a former crofter’s cottage on the shores of Loch Fyne on Scotland’s western coast. I love this place, and indeed, the locals call it the best loved restaurant in Argyll. Inver welcomes its guests with atmosphere, delicious food and great views of the Loch. Inver’s real focus, however, is sustainability, and I really love the integrity and authentic love of the land that Inver’s staff brings to everything they do. This team is the real deal. This is authentic Scotland. I could wax eloquent about Inver, but it’s their own words that really speak volumes. Upon receiving the distinction Inver writes, “A Green Star for ‘sustainable gastronomy’ from Michelin: this one’s not for us. It’s for all of our beloved community, near and far.”

They then proceed to name all of the food suppliers and extended community network, family and friends, that make their restaurant possible (it’s a long list). They mention the local gardeners who grow without chemicals, and the neighbor and his kids who provide buckets of fresh fish. They honor the local Fyne Ales brewery who supplies the naturally fermented beers, and they thank the 100 year old soaperie who delivers traditionally made bars. Most importantly Inver writes: “Inver is part of an ecosystem, and if all the people, plants, animals and landscape who connect it can’t thrive, then neither do we.” 

Well put. Congrats Inver! 


Scotland’s Castles Aim to be More Green

Edinburgh Castle in Edinburgh, Scotland.

Edinburgh Castle in Edinburgh, Scotland.

Castle are big structures and they require a lot of energy to keep them warm. Not to shy away from a challenge, however, Historic Environment Scotland (HES), which manages more than 300 properties in Scotland, announced that they aim to be “net-zero” by 2045. The plan includes creating parking hubs for visitor vehicles to reduce emissions, developing cycling infrastructure for staff and visitors, and eliminating gas heating from all HES buildings. 

HES says that some properties could be warmed by “district heating” which transfers heat energy from one point to another through a complex system of highly insulated pipes. 

Historic Environment Scotland manages more than 300 properties in Scotland including Edinburgh Castle, Linlithgow Palace and Stirling Castle.   

*Would you like to visit the castles of Scotland? How about walking the whiskey trail?

Looking for a Short Hike in the Swiss Alps? Our 4 Night Berner Oberland Inn-to-Inn Hike is a Wonderful Choice

The village of Lauterbrunnen and Staubbach Falls—Berner Oberland, Switzerland.

The village of Lauterbrunnen and Staubbach Falls—Berner Oberland, Switzerland.

Our four night inn-to-inn hike through Switzerland's Berner Oberland region is a perfect trip for hikers that would like to experience the very best of the Bernese Alps but don’t want to spend a full week on the trail.

This hike through the Swiss Alps delivers the most scenic highlights of the Berner Oberland paired with upgraded deluxe accommodations in cozy Swiss inns with mountain views along the way. Following well-maintained trails with incredible views, you’ll connect the idyllic Swiss villages of Interlaken, Grindelwald, Wengen and Mürren. You’ll also hike beneath a trio of stunning glacier covered mountains, the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, and you’ll walk through the magical valley of Lauterbrunnen (pictured above), nestled between stunning precipitous cliffs and 72 ethereal waterfalls. Tranquil mountain footpaths also lead to the timeless village of Gimmelwald where cute wooden chalets adorned with colorful flower boxes (and Swiss flags) huddle around perfectly manicured mountain pastures. Luggage is transported, and breakfasts and multi-course epicurean dinners are included during this hike. 

Click here to read more about our four night inn-to-inn hike through the Berner Oberland. We can also customize this hike to suit any desire. Please inquire!

Europe Travel Report: Travel Restrictions, Luzern Paddle Steamer, Mt. Rigi Steam Trains, The Alps on PBS

The village of Seis am Schlern in the Südtirol (South Tyrol), Italian Dolomites.

The village of Seis am Schlern in the Südtirol (South Tyrol), Italian Dolomites.

Salut travelers! Not a lot has changed since last week’s Europe travel report. Scotland extended their lockdown until the end of February. In Switzerland, the COVID-19 infection rate continues to fall, but the interior minister, Alain Berset, said that Switzerland is unlikely to ease its COVID restrictions before the end of February. This is amid fears of new virus strains. In France, the rules have tightened for travelers entering from the EU and Schengen area states. The scene isn’t much better throughout the rest of Europe. In the Alto Adige of Italy’s Südtirol (South Tyrol), residents entered another lockdown for three weeks. It’s not time to travel to Europe yet.  

That said, there IS some positive news. In the Middle East, there there is evidence coming out of Israel that the COVID-19 vaccine is beginning to curb the spread of the virus. It’s only a matter of time (fingers crossed) before vaccinations begin to effectively curb the virus in other countries. Be patient and stay safe! We’ve received more inquiries about fall travel. We’re hopeful but cautious, and we’re reminding all of our guests to remain flexible and to be grateful for good health. 

On a brighter note, here are some interesting things just waiting to be explored when Europe opens up again. PLANNING for a future trip is perfectly safe!


The Historic Steamboat Stadt Luzern Launches This Spring

The historic paddle steamer Stadt Luzern on Lake Lucerne. Photo courtesy of Lake Lucerne Navigation Company AG.

The historic paddle steamer Stadt Luzern on Lake Lucerne. Photo courtesy of Lake Lucerne Navigation Company AG.

The majestic paddle steamer Stadt Luzern returns to the waters of Lake Lucerne on May 1, 2021 following a two and-a-half year restoration. The Stadt Luzern is the flagship of the Lake Lucerne Navigation Company (SGV) which operates a fleet of 19 modern and historic vessels. Have you ever plied the waters of Lake Lucerne on a historic steamer? It’s a really special experience, and the Stadt Luzern is a very special vessel. She was built in 1928 as the last paddle steamer built for a Swiss Lake. The Stadt Luzern boasts an elegant Art Deco saloon and a fascinating guest list including Queen Elizabeth II. Over 80,000 hours of labor and 13.2 million Swiss francs went into returning the Stadt Luzern to its regal shine. Now she is stylishly renovated, more environmentally friendly, and proudly rejuvenated, Would you like to feel rejuvenated? How about a Wine & Dine cruise to go with your hike through the Swiss Alps? Or how about using the historic paddle steamer to access one of the many hikes in the area? Give us a call.


The Mount Rigi Railway Celebrates 150 Years With Steam

Mount Rigi is the oldest mountain railway in Europe.

Mount Rigi is the oldest mountain railway in Europe.

This is an incredible year for people who love steam-powered machines! We have the paddle steamer Stadt Luzern launching in May following a two and-a-half year refit (see previous post), and we have the “Romance of Steam” excursions in honor of Mount Rigi Railway’s 150th anniversary this summer. The Vitznau-Rigi Bahn (VRB) is Europe’s oldest mountain railway. Offically opened in 1871, the Vitznau-Rigi Bahn was the first mountain rack railway ever built in Europe and it’s also the second-oldest mountain railway in the world after the Mt. Washington Cog Railway in the United States. There are lots of anniversary celebrations planned for this summer on Mount Rigi but the “Romance of Steam” excursions are a special treat. On select days during the summer, passengers can ride in vintage passenger cars pulled behind some of the oldest steam-powered rack railway locomotives in the world. This is an experience straight out of “La Belle Époque” the golden age of mountain travel. One of my favorite locomotives on the line is locomotive No. 7 (Lok 7). Lok 7 was built in 1873, has a vertical boiler, and she still runs. She’s one of the oldest, if not THE oldest, surviving locomotive in Switzerland. It’s a shame that travel is so locked up this summer due to the pandemic. I’m hopeful that Rigi will continue to run steam in some form for the foreseeable future. Let us know if you’d like to experience this historic gem of a railway. We have two nice Swiss Alps Rail + Hike trips which visit Mount Rigi. Of course, we can also build any kind of custom trip. With or without steam, Mount Rigi is a great experience and the views (and hiking) off the top are outstanding. 


Watch “The Alps” Right Now On PBS

A chamois in the Tatra Mountains, Slovakia.

A chamois in the Tatra Mountains, Slovakia.

There is a great show streaming on PBS right now. It’s called The Alps. The two-part series is part of the PBS Nature program and focuses on the wildlife that live in the high Alps. The scenery is outstanding and the close-up footage of the animals living their every day life is astonishing. You’ll see eagles, chamois, ibex, lynx, bear, griffon vultures, and more. You can watch the show online, but the show expires in a week so hurry! Yesterday I ran into a friend on the trail who said she saw the show and thought of me. She absolutely loved the program. If you love big mountain scenery, then you’ll love it too! Check out The Alps on pbs.org.

Scotland in Photos: The Legend of Greyfriars Bobby

Greyfriar's Bobby.jpg

This life-sized statue of a Skye Terrier is called Greyfriars Bobby. There is an old legend in Edinburgh that ‘Bobby’ belonged to a man named John Gray in the mid 1800s. It is said that after John Gray died in 1858, Bobby spent the next 14 years keeping vigil at his master’s grave.

John Gray was as a night watchman before he died, employed by the Edinburgh City Police, as the story goes. He and Bobby were inseparable before Gray’s passing. When Gray died of tuberculosis in 1858 he was buried in Greyfriars Kirkyard, the cemetery that surrounds Greyfriars Kirk (church) just off Candlemaker Row in Edinburgh Old Town. Bobby became locally well-known during the 14 years that he sat at Gray’s grave, returning every day to await his master’s return. Bobby found a soft spot in many local residents’ hearts during those 14 years. One sympathetic heart in particular was the Lord Provost of Edinburgh who gave Bobby a collar in 1867 thereby making Bobby legally licensed even though Bobby no longer had an official owner. You can see the collar on display at the Museum of Edinburgh. Bobby died in 1872 at the age of 16.  

There have been a lot of stories written about this little dog, and there’s been a bit of controversy too. One historian in particular argues convincingly that there were two Bobbies, the first one was a rough-and-tumble stray, and the second was a nice-looking replacement (after the first one died) that helped fuel the booming tourist trade that quickly developed around Bobby’s tale.

What is indisputably real is this little bronze statue which stands on the corner of Candlemaker Row and George IV Bridge street. The statue dates to 1873 (a year after Bobby died) and sits in front of the entrance to Greyfriars Kirkyard. Yes, you can go inside the kirkyard to visit the graves of Bobby and John Gray. There is also a wonderful little tavern appropriately called “Greyfriars Bobby” next door, and across the street stands the National Museum of Scotland. The museum is awesome!

If you find yourself in Old Town Edinburgh during your next trip, then be sure to stop by and say hi to Bobby. Loyal companion or stray, this little Scottish terrier will surely steal your heart.

Europe Travel Report: Border Closures, Lion Monument, Ceneri Base Tunnel, Leakey's Bookshop

Tranquil moments on the shores of Lake Lugano in the canton of Ticino, Switzerland.

Tranquil moments on the shores of Lake Lugano in the canton of Ticino, Switzerland.

Hello lovely travelers! If you’ve been thinking about traveling to Europe as much as I have recently, then you’re feeling REALLY anxious right now. Several of you reached out to me in recent weeks wondering when we’ll be able to head back to Europe for hiking in the Alps, visiting a castle in Scotland, and/or sitting down to a delicious dinner in France. The simple answer is that it’s still not possible, or advisable, for non-Europeans to visit Europe for touristic purposes at this time. Let’s dive in and see what’s going on in Europe this week. 

Europe is pretty much locked down to foreign tourists. There are various exceptions, but in general, traveling to Europe for pleasure is a no-go for the immediate future. In the UK, the national government is currently enforcing a national lock down in an effort to curb the transmission of COVID-19. In Switzerland, vaccinations are under way, but a raft of measures passed in January have closed non-essential businesses, public and private parties are reduced to 5 people, and most workers across the country are required to telecommute from home. In France, a mandatory curfew has residents resting chez eux each night from 06:00 pm to 06:00 am. Some shops and public services remain open in France, but restaurants and bars are fermé. In Germany, restrictions are tight. There are all sorts of rules applying to travel, and it is currently verboten for accommodation providers to offer overnight accommodation for tourism purposes. The German government, along with Austria, also made N95 surgical masks mandatory on all public transport and in stores. No cloth masks allowed! In the Netherlands, riots recently broke out over curfews. In Italy, the prime minister resigned this week as the COVID-19 response split the coalition government. That’s just a peek into the Europe travel scene at the moment. It’s not exactly conducive for sipping a café and feeling romantic in a French bistro.

What about 2021 summer travel? 

It’s a toss up. We’ve actually been quite busy lately. We have guests signed up for fall hiking in the Swiss Alps, and we’ve been writing proposals for custom trips for all times of the year. In short, we all have our fingers crossed, and everybody understands that we just have to wait and see how events unfold. I’m not terribly optimistic about summer travel, but looking at the data and the predictive math, I think it’s slightly possible that we’ll be traveling to Europe by the fall of 2021. I’m hopeful. That said, we humans really have to come together to beat this pandemic. The realist in me believes that we probably won’t seriously consider travel in Europe until the spring of 2022. I hope I’m wrong and we get through this earlier. This is an exercise in patience! Rest assured, you’ll be the first to know when we have the green light. The most important thing is that we get through this safely. I’m looking forward to traveling with all of you for many years to come.

Know this. The travel situation is not all gloom and doom. Time passes quickly, and we’ll be sipping Apfelschorle in the Italian Dolomites before we know it! In the meantime, here are some interesting things going on in Europe this year. 


The Lion Monument in Luzern celebrates 200 Years

The Dying Lion Monument (Löwendenkmal) in Luzern honors the Swiss Guards who lost their lives during the French Revolution. The monument is 200 years old in 2021.

The Dying Lion Monument (Löwendenkmal) in Luzern honors the Swiss Guards who lost their lives during the French Revolution. The monument is 200 years old in 2021.

The Lion Monument (Löwendenkmal) in Luzern commemorates the Swiss Guards who lost their lives during the storming of the French King’s Tuileries palace by French Revolutionaries on August 10, 1792. A surviving Swiss Guard officer named Carl Pfyffer von Altishofen from Luzern brought the monument to fruition, and a Danish sculptor named Bertel Thorvaldsen developed the design. Sculptors carved the image of the dying lion directly into the sand stone wall of a former quarry and inaugurated the monument on August 10, 1821. Please do visit the Lion Monument the next time you’re in Luzern. The monument is an easy 10 minute walk from the famous Chapel Bridge in downtown Luzern, or a quick 7 minute ride by bus.  


The New Ceneri Base Tunnel Makes Alpine Travel Crazy Fast

Montebello Castle is one of three historic castles in Bellinzona and a UNSESCO World Heritage Site. Travel between Zürich and Bellinzona is less than two hours thanks to the new Ceneri Base Tunnel. The travel between Lugano and Bellinzona is just 15…

Montebello Castle is one of three historic castles in Bellinzona and a UNSESCO World Heritage Site. Travel between Zürich and Bellinzona is less than two hours thanks to the new Ceneri Base Tunnel. The travel between Lugano and Bellinzona is just 15 minutes.

The Ceneri Base Tunnel opened for regular service on December 13, 2020. The travel between Zürich and Lugano now takes less than two hours! Yes, you really can have your Zürcher Geschnetzeltes for lunch and your Risotto Ticinese for dinner too. What’s more, the journey from Zürich to Milan, Italy is a brisk 3 hours and 17 minutes. (Three hours is the eventual goal.) 

But wait, there’s more! The Bellinzona-Locarno-Lugano triangle also experienced a quantum leap in transport efficiency. Thanks to new routes and state-of-the art trains, the travel time between Lugano and Locarno has been reduced to 30 minutes. The journey between Bellinzona and Lugano is just…wait for it…15 minutes! Put the castles of Bellinzona on your bucket list the next time you visit Ticino. The Bellinzona castles are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and worth exploring.  


Fun Times (and Good Reads) at Leakey’s Bookshop

Leakeys Bookshop.JPG

Leakey’s is one of my favorite secondhand book shops in Scotland, and I make it a point to stop in whenever I visit Inverness. Housed in an old Gaelic church dating to 1793, Leakey’s boasts 100,000 selected volumes collected over 40 years. A crackling wood fire keeps the place cozy on chilly days, and the wonderful staff are happy to help you find a good book on nearly any subject. New for this year: The Leakey’s staff proudly announce that they’ve alphabetized the entire crime, thriller, sci-fi, fantasy and popular fiction sections. The days of combing through the whole stack to find the author you’re looking for are over! Personally, I enjoyed the journey and sense of discovery involved with scanning the entire stack. However, the faster you find the book you’re looking for the sooner you can pour yourself a Real Ale and lose yourself in a great story. Awesome job Leakey’s. I can’t wait to dive into those stacks!

That’s all for this week. Do you have any questions about traveling in Europe? Dreaming about hiking in the Alps? This is the perfect time to plan. Please give us a shout